Fashion & Religion

Jasmilex Sanchez Guzman

Buf 3100

Dr. Adomaitis

Symbolism in Catholicism

Fashion is defined as “ a prevailing custom or style of dress, etiquette, socializing” (Fashion, 2018). The vestures worn by the Pope, symbolizes hierarchy of power and a status of being a king to others. Throughout the years fashion in Catholicism has evolved from being simple to becoming more elaborating in today’s society.

Throughout the years the Pope’s attire have been different, not all the Pope’s share the same concept of wearing the same vestiment. Early throughout the centuries Pope’s have been known to wear a white garment with a red mantle over. The history of the vestment of the Pope’s attire has been around before Pope Prius V, according to an article “ The first formal record we have of the Pope’s dress being white is in the Ordo, or ceremonial book, of Pope Gregory X (1272-1273)” (Horvat, 2018). Pope Prius V who was Pope from the 1566 until 1572 was a Dominican Pope, and he decided to continue wearing garments which was his white cassock or soutane with his red cape on top. So this where fashion comes to play and why the Pope wears his attire and its symbolic reasons.

The vestures that the Pope wear on a day to day basis are such a symbolic statement in both religion and fashion; so why is the white garment and the red mantle very symbolic to Catholicism? The white cassock represents a sense of purity and “ it creates unity; and it marks the Pope out to be a singular leader” (Baines, 2018). The color white especially in Catholicism symbolizes innocence in this case it would be the innocence of our Christ. Red is the color that stands out as soon as you see it feet away, it’s the color of fire and blood, but it was also used in Catholic, Christianity wardrobe (Morton, 2018), the red mantle represents that the Pope has officially took the office and that the Pope is ready to take charge.

Year after year different Pope’s would follow the same dress code, and other Pope’s such as Pope Paul VI and our current Pope Francis would still follow the guideline but they had their own twist to their vestures routine. Pope Paul VI (1963-1978) had more jewels and crosses on his shoes and that differentiated him from the rest. Pope Paul VI had a crown tiara which he placed at the altar when he became a Pope, and this symbolized him stepping down his cardinal position and become the Pope of Catholicism. The tiara that Pope Paul VI had placed in the basilica was also a sense of taking on authority. Instead of the Pope wearing the tiara, he had to use headgears; he had a collection of them, but the one that he used most of the time was the papal mitre. Papal mitre is “white cloth crown rises to a peak in both front and back and usually has lappets, wide bands of cloth, hanging from the back” (“Papal Vestments”, 2018). Another Pope that was different from other Pope; was Pope Pius VII. Pope Pius VII (1800-1823) he had red shoes with gold cross on both shoes, the Popes had only two options on shoe wear and they were red shoes or slippers. In the Pope’s attire, Pope’s are seen wearing jewelry; mostly rings. On each picture of a Pope, there are ring that are visible to see, which the ring symbolizes power, a person who meets the Pope would have to kiss the Pope’s hand where the Pope has all the rings on.

In today’s society, the new Pope attire has evolved from simple to a more elaborated vesture; Pope Francis garment still has the white cassock without the red mantle and more of other accessories. Pope Francis instead of wearing the “ custom” red shoes or slippers, Pope Francis chooses to wear black shoes with his classic white cassock and mozzetta which is a short cape that signifies “ authority” (Time, 2015). Pope Francis also, wears different robes; such as green which represents nature ( environment) and it symbolizes that it’s time for ordinary, then the color red comes up again; and when the Pope wears red it shows the blood and the sacrifice of Jesus. Popes from before Pope Francis their jewelry would be gold and jewels, but Pope Francis has a necklace with the cross and Jesus, and instead of following the prior Popes jewelry, Pope Francis has his necklace in silver and much more simpler. Which ties to an exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art New York: Heavenly Bodies.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art New York showcased an exhibit where Catholicism and fashion came together to present beautiful pieces called “Heavenly Bodies” and the dresses that were shown were beautiful. The exhibit had unique dresses and elaborated pieces; as well as the simple look of a priest and nuns. A tiara from Pope Pius IX (1846-1876) had gold embroidery with different color of stones; this tiara was worn for “ special occasion, including the papal coronation” ( The Metropolitan Museum of Art New York, 2018). Another piece that would elaborate and resemble a Pope attire would be a evening ensemble by the designer of John Galliano who created a beautiful vestment with a tiara that a Pope ; Pope Paul would wear and place in the Basilica in Italy. This dress shows the hierarchy and how much power just by looking at the piece itself. The designer Galliano pint pointed what a Pope of power would wear. Galliano incorporated gold which is a staple in Pope’s accessories, Galliano embroidered jewels all around the garment including the cape and tiara. Galliano used jewels that most Pope used which were emerald green, blues, the reds; Galliano made sure that the length of the vesture was at the length of the shoe, that’s the length of the Pope’s vestments.

In conclusion, throughout the years fashion has changed in the Catholicism and the vestments of the Pope’s. Pope’s like Prius V decided to stick with a white cassock and red mantle to keep the tradition that he carried from the Dominican Republic. Then Pope Paul VI, had the same guideline of the garments, but had a different take on with the jewels, and different types of headwears. Lastly, the now Pope Francis has the white cassock without the red mantle and instead of red shoes or slippers; black shoes. Fashion changes and it evolves from simple to more elaborated designs.

References

Baines, W. (2018). The Pope’s Clothes, and What They Mean. Retrieved June 19, 2018, from http://www.beliefnet.com/faiths/catholic/the-popes-clothes-and-what-they-mean.aspx?p=4

Fashion. (2018). Retrieved June 19, 2018, from

http://www.dictionary.com/browse/fashion

Horvat, M. T. (2018). The Symbolism of the Papal Red & White. Retrieved June 19, 2018,

from http://traditioninaction.org/religious/i015_RedCope.htm

John Galliano for House of Dior. (2018). Retrieved June 20, 2018, from

https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2018/heavenly-bodies/art-and-fashion-images

Morton, J. (2018). Red. Retrieved June 19, 2018, from

https://www.colormatters.com/the-meanings-of-colors/red

Papal Vestments. (2018). Retrieved June 19, 2018, from

http://ultimatehistoryproject.com/papal-vestments.html