Seasonal Dish- 聽Rinc贸n Melania

聽Rinc贸n Melania is聽 an airy, modern restaurant located at聽35-19 Queens Blvd, Long Island City, NY 11101 which is聽run by a family with roots in the Ca帽ari tribe, every meal begins with tostado, a snack of roasted corn. A generous handful of kernels, dusted with salt. The kernels are as dark as brass, with hard shells and glossy vellum skins. They鈥檙e still warm from the pan, when the moisture inside the shells turned to steam and made the corn swell and pop. But there鈥檚 no outward sign of the tumult, no spilling of guts. It鈥檚 popcorn, minus the explosion into fluff; a worthwhile trade-off, sacrificing lightness for meatiness and crunch.

Seasonal Dish

A bowl of sango de camar贸n and Encebollado.

Service Element

A bowl of sango de camar贸n,聽which is neither quite soup nor stew, It’s shrimp in a sauce of young plantains, not聽 sweet, pulverized and merged with ground peanuts. It is heavy and thick, and is suitable for a cruel winter.

encebollado,聽 a ruddy stew of tuna, lightly poached until not too far from rare, with fat cuts of cassava, boiled in the briny poaching liquid, and a crowning heap of curtido;聽 pickled red onions and tomato under a flutter of cilantro. It鈥檚 considered a hangover cure.

Servicescape Element

The dining room is airy and modern, with stuffed alpacas from Ecuador perched on the back of a long banquette and woolen rugs on the wall, the work of Otavale帽os, indigenous weavers in Ecuador whose craft predates the Incas. The front windows are set back from the street far enough for a cinematic glow to suffuse the elevated train as it sweeps by.

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