ARTH 1204 20TH Century Dress and Culture

Course Description:

This course examines how historical periods affect the style and construction of  clothing. Students are introduced to analytic techniques that evaluate how culture, economics,  politics, and religion influence and shape the style of the time. Each student is assigned or selects  specific items of clothing and then traces the development of style, trend and fashion. This  course also introduces important terminology integral to the fashion industry and required to  discuss all facets of its history. Issues affecting the fashion industry are explored through  readings, videos, discussions and links to local industry are made through field trips and guest  speakers. 

Garment Research Paper – Polyester Pantsuits  

Kelly Dominguez  

20th Century Dress and Culture ARTH 1204  

 New York City College of Technology  

08 December 2020 

(Image-Clothing Blog,  2019). 70s shirts women’s – Rock retro-chic style today! (2019, November 28). Retrieved  December 15, 2020, from https://www.blue17.co.uk/vintage-blog/70s-shirts-womens/) 

 Abstract 

Introducing Polyester Pantsuit of the 1970s, when Fashion was evolving with whole new  formed bottoms and attires for both men and women. One of the exciting time periods to  discover and learn about the hippie and disco styles. Why this garment specifically? What caught  interest? To begin with, It’s come to the point where I personally believe polyester covers the  majority of my wardrobe. Any top, bottoms, dress and other accessories I own is made out of  polyester. Definitely not my favorite fabric to wear at all but it is interesting to know that I use  and live upon this fabric so much. That made me think what’s so good about this fabric in  particular and why is it the most commonly used one? It brought to my attention that polyester opinion wise is a fabric I rather stay away from but luckily enough it has marked a big impact in  the apparel history mostly. One of the times it was becoming a common use fabric was during  the 1960s-70s.  

When Was The Start Of The Pantsuit? 

Originally, any form of suit was made for men and leaped its way in becoming for  women over time. Anything other than dresses and skirts was rejected for women to use. Women  at the time weren’t allowed to be seen or wear pants, it was most likely considered illegal. By  1966, French designer Yves Saint Laurent produced the first tuxedo for women called, “Le  Smoking.” As an article from Business Insider describes it, “It consisted of a classic dinner  jacket in black grain de poudre wool or satin and trousers with a satin side-stripe with a ruffled  white shirt, black bow tie and a wide cummerbund of satin” (Shardlow, 2011). Although Yves  Saint Laurent wasn’t the very first to invent the suit for women, it did succeed to be the first  to promote a high fashion evening wear garment that gained recognition and became the likable  trend for women. Thanks to the “Le Smoking” tuxedo, women actually accepted and got inspired  to wear the suits publicly. They saw or viewed inspiration through female celebrities including  models styling the look. The tuxedo became such an icon that it lived through fashion powerfully  because it was the time women felt power among themselves, they were open to more  opportunities and full control of their choices without feeling oppressed. The “Le Smoking”  tuxedo became a significant memorable moment in history for leading women into continuing on  in fashion. Wearing suits may have been in hot style but ever thought if it was likeable for  everyone? Polyester took over the era like no other but in fact it wasn’t fully praised. Turns out  that the majority who wore and enjoyed wearing polyester was the older generation, for example,  said by a fashion encyclopedia, “By the late 1960s, the polyester image was different. Polyester leisure suits for men and polyester double knit pantsuits for women were embraced by the  middle-aged and elderly” (Steele, pg 53). Even if the youth wore it as well that didn’t mean that  they felt satisfied with polyester. They considered it cheap and weren’t pleased with it therefore  they hated polyester. College students considered it the “P” curse in the 70s. But that didn’t  stop or end the trend since it was a fabric that has done a favor for suits.  

What Social And Cultural Factors Were At Play To Create This Garment?  

What was the Social and Cultural Impact ? It was during the late 1960s when it was a  time of rebellious and spiritual awakening in the United States. People questioned and wanted to  develop changes within the political system, civil rights movement, gender equality and much  more. It was clear that the country wanted to live and form improvements within society to avoid  wars and other social issues. Of course, this year of growth heavily spread towards the 1970s  which became a decade of freedom of expression and exploration as well. An eye opening to  advance new discoveries. Attitudes rose more upon settling for peace and equality from the mid  1960s going to early 1970s, especially by the younger generation. During the time, the Vietnam  War was taking action and people strongly wanted to end and prevent this war from affecting the  nation harmily or even worldwide. In order to demonstrate and spread their message across in  making peace fashion was one of the supporting tools. For instance, it was known that men wore  green or camouflage army jackets and pants as a silent protest and represented war that it has to  end and in all respect that violence is not needed. For women, there was a kind of drastic change  upon what they wore. From hiding their bodies in full garment to freely wear anything they  desired, whether it was covered or not. Women even burned out their bras as a way to symbolize  their freedom of social expectations and not feel oppressed/judged about what they wear. The  movement included women wearing miniskirts and going to wear men’s suits. At the time as 

men also wore polyester leisure suits to work and as casual wear. Women also did the same  but the only difference is that they would mostly preferably wear menswear pantsuits for work.  Polyester double-knit pant suits were one of the most recognizable and memorable or highlighted  garments worn by both men and women during the 70s. It expresses casual, professional and  even dressy occasion wear. Basically, what is going on around the world always has some  impact when it comes to fashion or people use fashion as a form of voice. That’s why the Hippie  style was the signature “peace” look of the 70s, as a response to war, begging for equality and  acceptance in society. “All types of youth clothing were embellished with flower power motifs  and the peace symbol” (Hill, Pg 2), it stood out from the youth that their way of dressing was to  symbolize and support positivity and love. But at the same time explore fashion, creativity  and advance new styles and trends. Even with a lot going on in the world during the decade that  didn’t stop people from enjoying life freely, and getting inspired by other hit entertainable  influences. Pant suits, bell bottoms, leisure suits, trouser suits etc, were also part of an influence  based on pop culture such as music, films, celebrities and such. As an example, people, mostly  men, started to wear bell bottoms and would dress like the characters from “Saturday Night  Fever”, John Travolta’s iconic look in the white disco suit. Also, women were also inspired to  wear suits because celebrity women were shown wearing them on tv. Wearing pantsuits has  brought a lot of impact among people in fashion history. It brought equality a lot closer,  positivity in accepting desires and just broke the expectations of gender roles. Fashion doesn’t  have a rule. It’s all about freedom of expression.  

What Messages Does The Garment Convey?

Women wearing pantsuits symbolized power and freedom. Before fashion hit a major  turn during the 1960s-70s, women only wore dresses and skirts. It wasn’t even a thought or  unlikely for women to wear bottoms such as pants. Once the pantsuits came to be for women as  well, that spread into something very meaningful and new for the era. Power was what women  comfortably began to gain from the use of pantsuits. For centuries, suits symbolized male power  and women wanted to represent that kind of power too. Especially since they were entering into  professional workforces. As it is mentioned in the article, “American Women’s Fashions 1970- 1979,” that “In the early 1970s, young career women donned menswear pantsuits made of  impervious polyester double knits for the office” (Hill pg 2). This was meant to show that  women had careers and was an image of professionalism. Many of them during the 70s were  going to college and got into careers that paid well with additional opportunities for such  advancements. It was no longer the stereotypical tradition of the role of only being housewives  and homemakers. Women expressed and developed so much growth among themselves thanks to  fashion being like their ticket to freedom. Of course, a lot of past events occurred for women to  reach that far over time but fashion formed their new appearance of growth and improvements.  Pantsuits became more known for that kind of reputation for both men and women. To add to the  statement, Fashion historian Heather Vaughan Lee also says so in the Fast Company site under  article, “The Outrageous, Deeply Sexist History of the Pantsuit” for instance she states, “Power  suits developed in order to convey women’s economic and professional power, and to put them  on more equal footing with men in the workplace…” (Segran, 2019). The pantsuit significantly  showed that women had freedom as well in the extent that they weren’t forced to wear only  dresses and skirts. They had all the rights to wear whatever they desired and felt comfortable  with. Including that they had the chances to get careers and professional jobs. Basically, 

women’s forms of lifestyle extended for the better and converted into never before seen  experiences.  

What Materials May Have Been Used To Make The Piece of Clothing?  

           The pantsuits were usually made out of polyester. Polyester is a synthetic fiber which is  synthesized from single structured molecules such as glucose or protein called monomers and are  mainly derived from wood. It is blended with wool, including that they are normally made by  combining oil derivatives in a process called polymerization. Additionally, synthetic fibers are  often used in the apparel industry blended with natural fibers in order to increase strength, reduce  wrinkling, and decrease costs. One of the benefits of polyester is that it doesn’t wrinkle, it  dries quickly, it is strong and when being washed it doesn’t fade. Reasons why polyester being  the common and one of the most popular materials used in the 70s. For example, as it states in  “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry” that “New synthetics such as polyester and single,  double, and bonded knits were especially suited for the new styles” (Emery, pg 179). That’s  when and why polyester suits gained recognition during this decade in fashion for the majority of  the apparels were made out of this material. Another given example supporting this is from the  reading, “American Women’s Fashions 1970-1979” is “Instead women’s ready-to-wear pantsuits  were made with easy, loose-fitting, safari-style jackets, tunics, and long vests made of the new  polyester double-knit fabrics in vivid colors, textures and jacquards” (Hill, pg 4).  

What Indicators Do We See That Would Tell Us When The Clothing Was Made And Who  Might Have Worn It ? 

It was pretty obvious that pant suits were first worn and made to be worn for men. They  were the ones who had duties and given more bigger roles than women outside of home. It  showed that men had power because they publicly worked harder and did more professionally 

compared to women. Suits were the signature attire for men to represent reputational masculinity  and would be the far most what a man would commonly wear overall gender wise. Men’s suits  inspired designers to produce suits for women but in a feminine form without leaving out the  “powerful” formal appearance. Although pantsuits, leisure suits, trousers or just suits in general  have been associated to male power historically, that all changed when women began to wear  suits and projected power as well. Not just male power but their own kind of power women had  upon themselves. That blurred out the concept of male power over the decades that it grew just to  become a gender neutral power or belief. Thanks to the inspiration by men, over time wearing  suits from both genders became universal and a normal acceptable thing.  

For Garment Photo: Who Would Have Made It? & Who Was Intended To Consume The  Visual And Why?  

From viewing the photo, the pantsuits that the women are wearing could possibly be  made from an unknown designer from the time or could have possibly been factory made.  Perhaps made by both men and women intend to work with each other to support producing more pantsuit garments. Since it was the top latest fashion trend in the 70s mostly. The women in  the photo are shown modeling the pantsuits that are made out of double-knit polyester. Also set  in 3 different styles and colors. The photograph is purposely to demonstrate the big trend that  was going on in the 1970s with the suits. Women were actually happy during this time period  because of the new fashion styles that they were able to wear and overall the beginning of bigger  opportunities for them. The point is to show change, growth, Improvements, freedom and power.  That suits don’t only have to be made for men to wear, women can also pull off the style and  deserve to wear what they want. Whether casual, occasional and professional wise.   

Annotated Bibliographies: 

 Delis Hill, D. (2010). American Women’s Fashions 1970–1979. In J.B. Eicher & P.G. Tortora  (Eds.). Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: Global Perspectives. Oxford: Berg.  Retrieved December 15 2020, from http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/BEWDF/EDch101211 

The article clearly goes through the history of the 1970s, from its past world events  becoming a reflection to people’s fashion. The Vietnam war was the world event that  caused people to protest a dramatic change. It was the moment in history when people  believed and pleaded for peace. That’s where the name “Hippies’ ‘ signified the era as  people who wanted and supported peace, love and mainly treated society positively.  Especially the youth, they were a generation that demonstrated their support through their  new fashion and it eventually evolved further on in the 70s. So much color, accessories,  silhouettes, patterns, and whole different perspectives among fashion was forming which  the 1960s-70s became a starting turning point in the history of fashion.  

Emery, J.S. (2014). New Challenges: 1960s–1980s. In A History of the Paper Pattern Industry:  The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution (pp. 178–194). London: Bloomsbury Academic.  Retrieved December 15 2020, from http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/9781474223775/JEHISPPI0013 

Within this article, it’s stated that during the 1960s was the year it was considered the  “Boom” period due to major rapid changes within the decade. Dynamic marketing was  very successful during the time. That caused development in pattern companies and in the  apparel industries that new fashions were created. This became a major multicultural  change that different forms of patterns, silhouettes, attires etc were getting invented and  sold to the youth. 

Scheffer, M. (2010). Synthetics. In L. Skov (Ed.). Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and  Fashion: West Europe (pp. 96–97). Oxford: Berg. Retrieved December 15 2020, from  http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/BEWDF/EDch8020 

The “Synthetics” article explains the background of synthetic fibers that goes back to its  organic chemistry development by the second half of the 19th century. It was meant to  create an alternative for silk for reliance and economically. Rayon, acetate, polyamides,  and polyesters were also under the same objective. Due to World War 2, it boosted up  production of alternative fibers because the war had interrupted wool and cotton supplies  to Germany and Italy. It was also to view the advantages of Synthetic fibers. For instance,  these fibers were frequently used in apparel because it made them stronger, cheap in  value and won’t wrinkle nor fade. Synthetic fibers were blended with natural fibers for  these causes. It was by the 1930s when the fiber industry emerged in both the United  States and Europe after the 2nd World War. That led to the expansion of production  overseas. More materials and apparels were being made.  

Segran, E. (2019, October 15). The outrageous, deeply sexist history of the pantsuit.  Retrieved December 15, 2020, from https://www.fastcompany.com/90393935/the outrageous-deeply-sexist-history-of-the-pantsuit 

In this company site, the reading summarizes and discusses the history of women wearing  suits, as they named it, “Power Suits.” The suits were given the name because historically  at first it symbolized male power and decades later women had the opportunity to get into  office jobs. That raised the trend of women wearing suits to show that they also had a  

reputation and could balance equality with men. For women working at offices and going to college, the article mentions that it was part of the idea that women felt more  comfortable wearing bottom pants instead of dresses and skirts. They also wanted to  break being sexualized from looking too feminine wearing dresses and skirts. Since then,  suits overtime became gender neutral and lost the symbolic view of power.  

Steele, V. (2004, September 22). Polo Shirt – Polyester. Encyclopedia of Clothing and  Fashion, vol 3 (pp 562). Scribner Library of Daily Life. Retrieved December 15, 2020,  from http://1.droppdf.com/files/fmrXY/encyclopedia-of-clothing-and-fashion-vol3.pdf 

Polyester in this article is descriptively divided into sections from its brief history of its  invention to the use of the fabric. Going to apparel use, it states in the article that  polyester during the late 1960s its image was viewed differently. Since it was the time  when fashion was changing for both men and women, polyester leisure suits and  pantsuits were embraced by more grown aged people. An Interesting piece of information  that the article does include is that the younger target group hated polyester and that by  the 1970s there was such a thing called a “P” curse, for the cheap texture of the fabric.  Because of that a Tennessee Eastman Company launched a campaign to revive  polyester’s image. Of course, knowing how the 70s fashion was polyester still made it  through its spotlight to being one of the most used materials in the apparel industry.  

Shardlow, E. (2011, August 08). How Yves Saint Laurent Revolutionized Women’s  Fashion By Popularizing The “Le Smoking” Suit. Retrieved from  

https://www.businessinsider.com/ysls-greatest-fashion-hits-2011-8

This article talks about looking back at Yves Saint Laurent’s creation of the “Le  Smoking” women’s tuxedo and the way it impacted women’s fashion. For being very 

iconic it evolved and turned the world around for women supporting and continuing the  style. It’s one of the top remembered garments that Yves Saint Laurent launched during  the 60s. Suits passed on to being part of women’s attire and that was the purpose from the  designer’s invention. He wanted to structure and inspire women in a different whole new  experience. Women can wear suits too.  

70s shirts women’s – Rock retro-chic style today! (2019, November 28). Retrieved December 15,  2020, from https://www.blue17.co.uk/vintage-blog/70s-shirts-womens/ 

This site is where the garment photo was found. The blog gives information about the  type of styles the 1970s were trending. Mainly the kinds of shirts women wore during the  time and how they will casually, occasionally and professionally wear. Trendy looks  from wearing mini skirts, dresses, tunic tops, shirts and suits.  

https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentral-com.ezproxy.cul.columbia.edu/products/berg fashion-library/museum/commercial-pattern-archive-copa/dress-pants-skirt-2 

https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentralcom.ezproxy.cul.columbia.edu/products/berg-fashion-library/museum/commercial-pattern archive-copa/dress-pants-skirt-